SARDINIAN FREGULA OR FREGOLA?
Traditional Fregola is a typical Sardinian pasta prepared with durum wheat semolina, also known as fregula, fregua, succu, cascà, or pistitzone, depending on the areas of the island where prepared.
Flavors and Knowledge
Jan 26
{Fregola Image Attribution via Cagliari.Italiani}
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Buongiorno amici:
The Sardinian Fregula or Fregola is often considered one of the treasures of traditional Sardinian cuisine and a primary ingredient in many delicious Sardinian recipes. Its history is very ancient, suggesting that the Fregola was already preparing in Sardinia over 1000 years ago! So let’s find out what it is.
Traditional Fregola is a typical Sardinian pasta prepared with durum wheat semolina, also known as fregula, fregua, succu, cascà, or pistitzone, depending on the areas of the island where prepared. To be precise, the term “fregola” is a translation that makes many people turn up their noses; purists prefer to use Sardinian names. Whether you prefer one form or another, the word’s origin would seem to derive from the Latin ferculum, “crumb.”
The reason is simple: the peculiarity of the Fregola is its format. “Crumbs” of irregular pasta, of a more or less large size, made by kneading semolina and water for a while. This pasta is then toasted in the oven, taking on a darker color and a perfect flavor. Because of its format, Fregula can often be confused with Couscous, the typical North African dish. However, the main difference between the two is the cooking method used.
Couscous loves steamed, whereas the Sardinian Fregula prefers the boiling or risotto-style method. Color and taste differ from place to place, especially in the Campidano area with saffron added to the mixture.
History of the Fregola
La Fregola has ancient origins, and we all agree. According to several scholars, this type of pasta spread on the Sardinian island, thanks to commercial exchanges with Phoenicians and Punic; others argue that its creation was exclusively due to its residents. Fregola does not appeal to everyone and is rarely used in the mainland regardless of its birthplace. It is much more prevalent among Instagrammers.
In a 14th-century document, the Statute of the Millers at Tempio Pausania offers pieces of evidence that its preparation could only be carried out from Monday to Friday, conserving water for the agricultural work scheduled for the weekend.
Knowing the natural history of the typical Sardinian pasta is perhaps impossible. However, the certainty we have is that the fregula is one of the most important symbols of the island tradition. Its rough texture and consistency make it a perfect product for various sauces and preparations, and the cook’s creativity is mandatory here.
{Image Attribution via Ettore Cavalli}
How to cook the Fregola
The most famous Sardinian recipe with this type of pasta is the Fregola with clams (Fregula cun còcciula in Cagliaritano), an excellent typical first course, especially in Southern Sardinia. The habit of seasoning Fregola with sauces, with tomato or white fish-based fish, is widespread throughout Sardinia.
But not only: the Sardinian Fregola lends itself to many different preparations, from the richest ones like the Fregola with seafood to others of poorer origin such as the Fregula incasada, the first course with simple ingredients: parsley, tomato, sometimes saffron, and lots of grated pecorino cheese.
In addition to traditional recipes, the product can also find use in more complex dishes and more original combinations. For example, chefs prefer the risottando method: cooked in the style of a typical risotto, adding broths by ladleful at a time. Also ideal in soups, seasonal vegetables, and bottarga.
The only limitation in using this raw material is creativity and guiding yourself by your taste to create the dishes you prefer. Remember, however, to always use the Fregola of the most suitable size for your recipe type. Large Fregola for risotto or drier dishes, finer Fregola for soups and sauces.
Note: Purchase fregola from specialty markets or online stores. Also, seek Mediterranean food stores, which carry the product daily.
{Cagliari, Sardegna’s Capital City Image Attribution via Sardegna.info}
{Fregola with clams photo attribution via Niedditas}
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Fregola alla Sarda (Sardinian style fregola)
Ingredients for 4
2.2 pounds of small fresh clams
Two garlic cloves peeled
Three tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
Three tablespoons of tomato paste
1/2 cup fresh parsley minced
Three cups of fresh clam broth (low sodium)
Eight tablespoons of toasted Fregola
Procedure
Rinse the clams in fresh cold water, and place them in a large bowl submerged with cold water and two teaspoons of marine salt for about 2 hours.
Drain the water, and place the clams in a large saucepan, equipped with a lid for quick steam of about 6-7 minutes, until clams open up.
Once all the clams are open, check for possible impurities. Then, remove the attached mollusks from the shell. You may leave four clams whole for the presentation stage of the dish. Place the meat of the clams in a separate dish for later use.
Strain the liquid generated from the steaming and filter through a clean coffee filter. Reserve.
Add half of the olive oil to a clean high-sided saucepan and heat for 20 seconds. Add the garlic and the parsley, and cook the soffritto base very lightly, on meager heat.
Add the tomato paste to the mixture, and stir well. Pour in the low-sodium clam broth and the reserved strained broth from the clams. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to simmer.
Incorporate the Fregola into the broth, and begin the cooking process, occasionally stirring, until the Fregola softens. It will cook in about 15 to 20 minutes. The broth will reduce considerably. Do not add salt. You will have enough salt in the clam broths.
Lastly, add the clams, and cook together with the Fregola for about 5 minutes. Once the broth appears slightly thickened, you are ready to serve. If preferred, you may add a pinch of chili pepper or a dash of white pepper or salt—all subjective to your taste.
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